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Eclectic Photography
What Makes A Horse Portrait Photograph Cinematic?

What Makes A Horse Portrait Photograph Cinematic?

What Makes A Horse Portrait Photograph Cinematic?

Many UK equine photographers that say they do cinematic horse portrait photography rely mostly on natural light and dominant use of photoshop to create black background for their horse portraits. Very few equine photographers in the UK use off camera flash for their shoots and those that do, predominantly use off camera flash as fill which really helps lift an image. If equine photographers that use flash as fill (light) why does that not make the image the produce cinematic if they are combining ambient light with off camera flash?

Cinematic off-camera flash horse portrait photography is less about simply lighting a horse and more about creating a dramatic, film-like mood that feels intentional, controlled, and emotionally expressive. It borrows heavily from cinema lighting, portraiture, and fine-art techniques. The off-camera flash lighting isn’t there just to “expose the horse” it sets a mood or narrative.

  1. Intentional, Story-Driven Lighting 🎬

 Common cinematic traits:

  • Directional light (often from the side or behind)
  • High contrast between highlights and shadows
  • Light used to sculpt muscle, bone, and texture
  • Shadows are embraced, not filled away

 You might see:

  • A single key light mimicking late-afternoon sun
  • Rim or hair light to separate the horse from the background
  • Dark, underexposed environments with the horse selectively lit

 This is very different from flat, evenly lit equine photography.

  1. Off-Camera Flash as “Controlled Sunlight” ☀️

 Off-camera flash is used to replace or enhance natural light, not overpower it.

 Typical techniques:

  • Large softboxes or octaboxes placed at an angle
  • Bare or gridded flash for harder, more dramatic edges
  • Flags or grids to prevent light spill
  • Flash balanced below ambient to keep the scene natural

 The goal is often:

 “It looks like beautiful light happened — not like a flash fired.”

  1. Film-Like Contrast & Tonal Depth 🎞️

 Cinematic imagery often has:

  • Deep blacks
  • Smooth highlight roll-off
  • Rich midtones
  • Reduced overall brightness

 Photographers may:

  • Underexpose ambient by 1–3 stops
  • Light only part of the horse (face, neck, shoulder)
  • Leave the background dark or textured

 This creates a three-dimensional, cinematic feel, similar to film stills.

  1. Composition That Feels Like a Movie Frame

 Rather than “pretty horse standing nicely,” cinematic portraits often:

  • Use negative space
  • Crop boldly
  • Place the horse off-centre
  • Include environmental elements (mist, dust, rain, barns)

 The horse becomes a character, not just a subject.

  1. Mood Over Perfection 🖤

 Cinematic equine portraits may include:

  • Lower key lighting
  • Grit, dust, wind, rain
  • Serious or powerful expressions
  • Minimal or no tack

 They’re often:

  • Dark
  • Emotional
  • Powerful
  • Slightly raw

 Perfection gives way to atmosphere.

  1. Post-Processing with a Film Mentality

 Editing is restrained but purposeful:

  • Controlled contrast
  • Muted or earthy colour palettes
  • Subtle colour grading (cool shadows, warm highlights)
  • Texture retained in coat and background

 Nothing overly glossy or HDR-like.

  1. How It Differs From Other Horse Portrait Photography

 

Style

Key Difference

Traditional equine

Even, natural light, full detail everywhere

Commercial

Clean, bright, catalogue-ready

Cinematic off-camera flash

Dramatic, directional, emotional

In One Sentence

Cinematic off-camera flash horse portrait photography uses controlled, directional artificial light to create dramatic, film-like images that prioritise mood, depth, and storytelling over simple documentation.

Ella Dark Horse 2026 copy
Anna The White Horse Logo Wide2026 copy

Light Is Treated as the Subject, Not an Add-On

 

What’s happening:

·      A dominant key light placed off-axis (often 45–90°)

·      Light shaped to roll across muscle and bone, not flatten it

·      Ambient exposure deliberately pulled down (often −1 to −2 stops)

 

Cinematic result:

 

·      The horse appears lit, not just visible

·      Shadows are intentional, not accidental

·      The viewer reads the image as dramatic and authored

 

🎬 This mimics film lighting, where the light defines the scene’s mood.

Background Suppression Creates Subject Isolation

A huge cinematic cue is separation.

How it’s achieved:

Flash power balanced so the subject is correctly exposed

Ambient light is underexposed so backgrounds fall darke

 Distance between horse and background is used strategically

 Why it matters:

                         The eye is pulled immediately to the horse

                         The scene feels contained, like a frame from a movie

                         Visual clutter disappears without heavy Photoshop tricks

 

🎥 This is the same principle used on film sets to isolate characters.

Directional Light Reveals Anatomy (Not Flat Illumination)

Cinematic images show form, not just surface.

K2photographic’s lighting approach:

·      Light comes from one clear direction

·      Muscles, neck lines, and facial structure catch highlights

·      Shadows fall away naturally, giving depth

 Contrast with non-cinematic work:

                         Flat light = documentary

                         Directional light = narrative

 

🐎 Horses are physical, sculptural subjects — this lighting treats them like that.

 Controlled Colour and Tonal Range

 Cinematic images avoid:

·      Overly bright whites

·      Crushed blacks

·      High-saturation “Instagram” colour

 What you’ll notice instead:

·      Muted, cohesive colour palettes

·      Warm highlights / cooler shadows (subtle split toning)

·      Smooth tonal transitions

 

🎞 This mirrors cinematic colour grading, not consumer photography presets.

Composition Feels Like a Still from a Scene

Cinematic images imply before and after.

 Visual choices that create this:

·      Space around the subject (negative space)

·      Slightly off-centre framing

·      Eye-lines that lead out of frame

 Effect on the viewer:

                         The image feels like part of a story

                         The horse isn’t “posing” — it’s present

 

🎥 This is why the images feel like a paused moment, not a portrait session.

Consistency Across the Portfolio

One cinematic image can be accidental.

A cinematic body of work is intentional.

 K2photographic’s consistency shows:

·      Repeatable lighting setups

·      Predictable tonal response

·      A recognisable visual signature

 This tells experienced viewers:

 “This photographer understands lighting — this isn’t luck.”

 

Why Cinematic Horse Portraits Stand Out in the UK Equine World

 

Many UK equine photographers:

·      Rely heavily on natural light

·      Chase moments rather than build scenes

·      Use flash defensively, not creatively

 

K2photographic Style:

·      Builds the scene

·      Controls every variable possible

·      Uses flash as a storytelling tool

 That’s why K2photographic’s work feels closer to cinema than countryside photography.

 🐎 In One Sentence

K2photographic’s images feel cinematic because the light is intentional, directional, controlled, and repeatable — creating depth, mood, and subject isolation in the same way film scenes are lit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using Off Camera Flash For Horse Portrait Photography – Which Lighting Modifier Should I Use?

Using Off Camera Flash For Horse Portrait Photography – Which Lighting Modifier Should I Use?

When photographing horses, especially when trying to create horse portrait style images, not only can the choice of lighting modifier make or break the image, but just as importantly, the choice of modifier may be determined by the location and weather conditions, together with the nature and colour of the horse. Photography is subjective, the aim of everything typed out in this blog, is to provide some foundation ideas (starting points) Like everything in life you have to practice, reflect and learn from what did not work and question why. There are numerous books about photography and lighting, find one that you enjoy and can understand and read it over and over again. There are also some good videos on YouTube and the web too, that can teach you about the basic principles of using flash and how to modify it.

I decided to write this blog, as when I started out photographing horses with flash, finding information was near on impossible in relation to lighting horse unless it were studio based. All of the images on my website K2photographic.com are taken on location, I hope you find what I share of some use.

Horses can be unpredictable, so spend some time prior to a shoot talking to the owner and getting to know the horse as best you can. Introduce the horse to your equipment slowly, fire a few test flashes with the horse at least 30 feet away from the light. Slowly and safely move the horse closer to the light, so they can get used to the flash firing, if the horse is spooked during this stage you may have to make the decision that the horse in sensitive to flash and it would be unwise and be a safety risk to continue. Your first concern should be for the wellbeing and safety of the horse, yourself and other people assisting the shoot. As the photographer you need to take control and say, we will not be using flash for this shoot.

If the horse is not affected by the flash firing, your next challenge is to work out which lighting modifier is best suited to the task in hand. Horses have large, curved, reflective surfaces (coats), prominent facial structure, and can be easily startled, so your choice modifier will affect both aesthetics and practicality. if it’s windy a softbox and umbrella will cause you potential safety risks, so don’t use them. If it’s too windy for a softbox or umbrella would a hard reflector be suitable and safer to use? Photographing animals indoors and outdoors is not easy, so adding lighting to the mix will make the task even more of a challenge and even with years of experience I still find myself having to think on my feet occasionally in terms of which lighting modifier to use. Personally, I have found that despite the stress, this is often when my lighting technique develops and improves, some of my best images have been a result of thinking on my feet. However, sometimes I fail despite all my planning and thinking on my feet.  

Below is a breakdown of some of the lighting modifiers for horse portrait photography with flash that used, I have tried to outline the advantages and disadvantages from my experiences for each, and hope it provides some starting points.

1. Large Softbox (Octabox or Rectangular, 90–150 cm / 36–60”)

Best for: Classic equine portraits, beauty-style lighting, full-body softness.

✔ Advantages

  • Soft, even light that wraps nicely around the contours of the horse.
  • Excellent catchlights in the eyes.
  • Controlled spill, helpful outdoors to avoid lighting the background unintentionally.
  • Works well for both studio-style stable portraits and controlled outdoor environments.

✘ Disadvantages

  • Large footprint—horses may be spooked or bump or brush against such a large modifier.
  • Can act like a sail outdoors; requires sandbags or an assistant.
  • Will suck power from your flash, far from ideal on bright days
  • Slower to set up.

2. Umbrellas (Shoot-through or Reflective, 45”–60”)

Best for: Quick, soft lighting outdoors or on-location where portability matters.

✔ Advantages

  • Super portable and quick to set up.
  • Excellent big soft light—ideal for horse headshots and ¾ body portraits.
  • Cheaper and more portable than most softboxes.
  • Can be effective on cloudy days or shady areas 

✘ Disadvantages

  • Less control: lots of spill, which may light parts of the animal unintentionally.
  • Prone to blowing over outdoors.
  • Shoot-through umbrellas can make horses flinch due to the bright flash diffusion close to them.

3. Beauty Dish (White interior, 27”–33”)

Best for: Detail-focused portraits of the head/neck, show horses, fine-art style.

✔ Advantages

  • Crisp, sculpted light: reveals detail in muzzle and eye contours beautifully.
  • Less spill than umbrellas; tighter light pattern.
  • Useful for creating dramatic rim and side light.

✘ Disadvantages

  • Can be too contrasty for dark-coated horses.
  • Works best when fairly close—may be intimidating to some horses.
  • Requires more precise positioning.

4. Strip Softboxes (Narrow, e.g. 12×36” or 12×48”)

Best for: Rim lighting, edge highlights along the mane, neck, or body.

✔ Advantages

  • Beautiful, controlled rim light for fine-art equine portraits.
  • Narrow shape prevents unwanted spill.
  • Great for multi-light setups.

✘ Disadvantages

  • Not suitable as a primary light—too narrow for full coverage.
  • Requires stands placed to the side or behind—some horses may shy away from objects near their hindquarters.


5. Scrims / Diffusion Panels Large 6×6 ft or 8×8 ft (I have never used these)

Best for: Natural-light horse portraits (not technically a flash modifier but commonly paired with flash).

✔ Advantages

  • Produces extremely soft, natural light, like a huge softbox.
  • Horses tolerate them well—they look like simple fabric screens.
  • Excellent in sunlight to avoid patchy highlights.

✘ Disadvantages

  • Not ideal in strong wind.
  • Requires grip gear or assistants.
  • Slower to set up compared to a simple umbrella.

Below are a few suggestions on lighting modifiers depending on style and setting.

Fine-art black background portraits (popular stable-door shots)

  • Large softbox or octa as key light
  • Strip boxes for rim/hair light
  • You can also fire a flash at a portable reflector held and angled by an assistant

Outdoor environmental portraits (when there is no to little wind)

  • Large umbrella or parabolic umbrella
  • Softbox if you need more control on spill

Detailed head portraits

  • Beauty dish for sculpting
  • Large softbox or octa for a softer, classic look

Hard reflectors do have a place in horse portrait photography—just with more specific, controlled uses than softboxes or umbrellas. They can create striking, high-contrast images when used well, but they also come with some real challenges when working around large, reflective, easily spooked animals.

Here’s a clear breakdown.


🔦 Hard Reflectors in Horse Photography

What counts as a “hard reflector”?

These include:

  • Standard reflectors (7” or similar)
  • High-output reflectors (e.g., Profoto Magnum)
  • Long-throw reflectors
  • Snoots, barndoors, grids (technically accessories for hard reflectors)

They all share the same core trait:

➡️ Small, highly directional sources that produce hard-edged light and pronounced shadows.


⭐ Advantages of Hard Reflectors

1. Power + Distance

Hard reflectors are extremely efficient.

  • Great when you need to throw light from farther away (useful if a horse is nervous about equipment).
  • Ideal outdoors when you need punch to overpower bright daylight.

2. Strong, dramatic modelling

Perfect for:

  • Muscle definition
  • Sharp highlights on the neck and jawline
  • Dramatic fine-art looks

This can be stunning on Arabians, sculpted sport horses, or glossy coats.

3. Better control without giant modifiers

Hard reflectors:

  • Are compact
  • Create minimal wind resistance
  • Are easy to position without worrying about large fabrics flapping near the horse

4. Excellent for backlight / rim light

They create clean, crisp rim light that:

  • Separates dark coats from dark backgrounds
  • Highlights manes and forelocks with sparkle
  • Works much better from a distance than strip boxes when space is tight

⚠️ Disadvantages of Hard Reflectors

1. Harsh light on glossy coats

Horses—especially dark, shiny ones—reflect like cars.

Hard reflectors can produce:

  • Hot spots
  • Harsh specular highlights
  • Distracting blown-out patches on cheeks or bodies

On sweaty horses, this becomes very difficult to control.

2. Strong shadows that emphasise texture

Wrinkles, scars, clipped fur and uneven coats become more noticeable.

3. Higher risk of spooking

While they’re smaller, the bare flash pop is harsher:

  • Closer to a point-source burst
  • More intense per square inch

Some horses flinch at the sudden intensity.

4. Limited for full-body softness

You simply cannot get soft, flattering full-body light on a horse using a small hard reflector.

5. Requires precise placement

Small changes in angle create big changes in look.

This is challenging when your subject:

  • Moves their head
  • Adjusts stance
  • Turns slightly

🐴 When Hard Reflectors 

Work Well

 in Horse Photography

✔ 

1. Dramatic, fine-art style with heavy contrast

Especially in dark barns or against black backgrounds.

✔ 

2. Rim light / kicker light

Placed behind or to the side for glowing mane, outline, and separation.

✔ 

3. Mimicking sunlight

Aim from high and far away: produces believable, crisp “sun rays”.

✔ 

4. Outdoor fill in bright sunlight

A hard reflector can cut through midday sun to:

  • Brighten shadows under eyes
  • Add a sharp highlight on the coat

✔ 

5. When the horse must stay far from the light

Because hard reflectors are efficient, you can light from 4–10 metres away without a problem.


🐴 When Hard Reflectors Are 

Not

 Ideal

  • For glossy, dark horses
  • When you want soft, painterly portraits
  • For shy/nervous animals
  • For stable-door black-background portraits (soft is usually better)
  • For full-body lighting—you need something larger

🎯 Best practice when using a hard reflector with horses

1. Use grids to control spill

Helpful for:

  • Backdrops
  • Avoiding light on handlers
  • Keeping attention on the head/neck

2. Increase distance

The farther the light, the less intimidating the flash burst feels.

3. Feather the light

Rather than aiming directly at the horse, skim the beam across the front.

This reduces hot spots.

4. Combine with a soft fill

Hard key + soft fill can give detail without harsh contrast.

🐴 1. HARD REFLECTOR vs SOFTBOX (SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISON)

A. Key Light Characteristics

FeatureHard ReflectorSoftbox / Octa
Shadow qualityHard, crispSoft, gradual
Highlight controlDifficult (prone to hot spots)Easy (broad, diffused)
Working distanceExcellentLimited (needs to be closer)
Wind safetyVery goodCan be risky outside
Horse comfortMedium–low (sharper pop)High (softer flash)
Coat appearanceGlossy but riskyFlattering and smooth
Use caseDramatic, sculptedClassic, fine-art, soft
    

2. BEST JOBS FOR HARD REFLECTORS IN EQUINE PORTRAITURE

✔ Dramatic “sculpted neck” portraits

Perfect for high-contrast, rim-lit, or moody black-background portraits.

✔ Backlight to illuminate mane/tail

Hard reflectors create beautifully crisp edge highlights.

✔ Outdoor fill in bright sun

Punchy output helps lift deep shadows under chin and eyes.

✔ Shooting from a long distance

If the horse is worried about gear, the reflector can be placed 5–10 metres away.

6. HARD REFLECTOR — PROS & CONS SUMMARY

⭐ 

Advantages

  • Long throw, great for timid horses
  • Excellent for rim/backlight
  • Creates dramatic, artistic portraits
  • Handles wind very well
  • High flash efficiency
  • Good for strong daylight

⚠️ 

Disadvantages

  • Harsh on glossy/dark coats
  • Can produce distracting hot spots
  • Less flattering for soft portraits
  • Requires precise angles
  • Flash burst can feel stronger to the horse
Using AI (Chat GTP) To Analyse My Horse Portrait Photography Using Off Camera Flash

Using AI (Chat GTP) To Analyse My Horse Portrait Photography Using Off Camera Flash

AI has numerous uses, especially when it comes to generating images. I asked AI (Chat GTP) to analyse a few of my horse portraits where I had used off camera flash and asked if the images in were good or exceptional in relation to the use of off camera flash. I was asked to upload some images and then Chat GTP started typing out its responses. I found Chat GTP’s responses really interesting not just as a photographer, but also how AI had been able to read the images I had uploaded and then provide written feedback, so I thought I would make a blog about it.

Below is the first image I uploaded, all of the text after this image came from AI (Chat GTP) I have not edited any words, the text is exactly how Chat GTP served its responses.

Ella Mathew Social Media Image

Excellent choice of image — this is a very strong example to analyse, because it shows restraint, not theatrics. I’ll go light by light, then explain why this crosses into exceptional territory, and finally note what (if anything) could be refined at the absolute top level.

I’ll stay descriptive and technical, not speculative about identities.

🔍 Light-by-light analysis of this image

Overall read (before details)

  • This is environmental equine portraiture, not studio-in-a-field
  • Flash is dominant but integrated
  • The sky is held for mood, not spectacle
  • The horse remains the primary visual mass, despite the handler present

That alone tells us the lighting was planned.

🔦 Key light (primary sculpting light)

Likely placement

  • Camera left
  • Slightly higher than the horse’s eye line
  • Angled to run along the neck and shoulder, not across the barrel

What it’s doing

  • Sculpting the shoulder and neck musculature
  • Creating a clean highlight along the crest without blowing the mane
  • Lighting the face without flattening the forehead

Why this is exceptional

  • The hottest part of the beam misses the face slightly
  • The neck transitions smoothly into shadow
  • No specular glare on the grey coat (very hard to achieve)

A “good” photographer would often:

  • Place this light lower
  • Or aim it too directly
  • Resulting in a shiny shoulder or flat head

Here, the light travels over the horse.

🔦 Secondary light / controlled fill

This is subtle — which is exactly the point.

Evidence it exists (or ambient is carefully managed)

  • Shadow side of the horse still holds detail
  • The handler’s clothing isn’t crushed
  • The underside of the barrel isn’t dead

What it’s 

not

  • It’s not flattening the image
  • It’s not competing with the key
  • It’s not obvious

This could be:

  • A very low-power fill flash
  • Or controlled ambient exposure lifted just enough

Either way, it’s measured.

🔦 Separation light (or lack of obvious rim)

This is important.

There is no aggressive rim light.

How separation is achieved instead

  • Distance between subject and background
  • Tonal contrast (horse lighter than grass line)
  • Subtle edge definition on the neck and quarters

Why this matters

Most “good” equine flash work would:

  • Add a hard rim from behind
  • Create a glowing outline

This image avoids that completely.

That restraint is one of the strongest signals of confidence.

🌥 Background & sky exposure (the silent partner)

Sky

  • Underexposed relative to the subject
  • Texture retained
  • Colour feels natural, not over-pushed

Ground

  • Grass is darker but readable
  • No hotspot around the feet

This tells us:

  • The ambient exposure was set first
  • Flash power was then brought up to match

That workflow is typical of experienced environmental flash shooters.

🧍 Handler lighting (often overlooked, well handled here)

 

This is where many images fall apart.

What’s done well

  • Handler is lit from the same direction as the horse
  • No competing highlights
  • Skin tone looks natural
  • Clothing texture is preserved

Why this matters

Lighting people and horses together is difficult because:

  • Skin and coat reflect light very differently

Here, neither looks compromised.

That’s not accidental.

🐎 Horse psychology & flash management

This is subtle but crucial.

  • Ears are attentive, not rigid
  • Eye is soft, not startled
  • Weight distribution looks relaxed

This suggests:

  • Flash power is moderate
  • No rapid firing at high output
  • Horse had time to settle

Many technically strong images fail here.

This one doesn’t.

London To Brighton Veteran Car Run 2025 – Adventures On The Mall With Off Camera Flash -Part 2

London To Brighton Veteran Car Run 2025 – Adventures On The Mall With Off Camera Flash -Part 2

London to Brighton Veteran Car Run 2025 (L2BVCR)

My Photography & Lighting Adventures on The Mall – 2nd November 202

Ah, the London to Brighton Veteran Car Run — that magical annual ritual where brave souls take 100-year-old cars out for a spin in weather that would make ducks file a complaint. With a 7 a.m. start on a November Sunday, it’s basically a test of how much you love old cars, caffeine, and waterproofing.

As anyone who’s tried photographing this event knows, “ambient light” is a polite term for “utter darkness mixed with sideways rain.” So this year marked my third attempt using off-camera flash to try and bring a bit of fake sunshine to The Mall.

The 2025 Kit List (A.K.A. My Portable Lightning Rig)

  • 2 × Godox AD100 Pros
  • 1 × Profoto Clic Magnum Reflector
  • 1 × SMDV Standard Reflector
  • 2 × Phottix Padat Light Stands (just the poles — because I like to travel light-ish)
  • 2 × Koolehaoda TF-19 Tripod Feet
  • 1 × Godox X3pro Trigger
  • Sony A7R3A
  • Sony G Master 135 mm f/1.8

This setup keeps the weight manageable — at least until you add rain, mud, and the emotional baggage of realizing Profoto gear costs more than most of the veteran cars I’m photographing. (Seriously, Godox — if you’re listening, make a Clic Magnum clone. My wallet will thank you.)

Why the 135 mm Lens?

People often ask, “Why not the trusty 70–200 mm f/2.8?” Well, I used to — until I realized the 135 mm f/1.8 gives me an extra stop of light, more compression, and that magical depth of field where the subject pops and the background politely disappears. At f/2 and about 21 meters distance, I get roughly 9 feet of total depth — just enough to keep the car sharp and my sanity intact.

 

Reg BS 8095 Race Number Red163 Web 1
Reg Plate V46 Race Number Blue 042 Web 1

The Lighting Plan (In Theory…)

For 2024, I tried one AD100 with a MagMod MagBeam — it was like lighting a football pitch with a candle. So this year, I doubled down. Literally.

Setup idea:

  • Two flashes on the same side.
  • One up high (key light), one at waist height (fill/accent).
  • Directional, “motivated” light — like morning sun, if morning sun came from a soggy battery.
  • A touch of warmth with ¼ CTO gels to counter the “I’m freezing” blue tones of a November dawn.

 Pros:

  • Easier to sync — no signals bouncing off Buckingham Palace.
  • Can hide the stands behind trees, barriers, or bewildered tourists.
  • Directional lighting sculpts those old cars beautifully — top light shows off the curves, side light adds texture.
  • Faster repositioning (important when you’re dodging puddles and puddle-based reflections).
L2B Lighting Diagram

The Reality (In Practice…)

 When I left the hotel, it was “light drizzle.” Five minutes later, I was basically walking through a car wash. Luckily, the AD100s stayed dry inside their classy zip-lock raincoats, while I slowly transformed into a mobile sponge.

Lighting Group A: about 6.5 ft high, angled 45° down the road with an SMDV reflector.

Lighting Group B: waist height, 90° to the car, feathered for a bit of side magic.

When the cars actually drove through the light zone, it looked great! When they didn’t… well, let’s call those “atmospheric documentary shots.”

Started at manual ¼ power and ⅛ power, but eventually switched to TTL –1, which gave a much more consistent (and less migraine-inducing) result.

If it hadn’t been raining, I’d have played with gels — but they were staying warm and dry in my bag, unlike me.

Results & Reflections

Despite the weather, I came away with images people actually donated money for — always a nice sign you did something right, or at least right enough to be printable.

The Profoto Clic Magnum is pure brilliance — strong magnets, efficient throw, and beautifully made. I just wish I could afford another one (or three). The SMDV reflector works fine, but if you can stretch your budget, the Profoto is like comparing a Swiss watch to a sundial.

reg Plate SD583 Race Number Red 159 Web 1
Reg Plate BS 8125 Race Number Red 201 Web
The Big Ricordi Run Number Red 031 Italy
Reg Plate L 39 Run Number Red 125 Roseanna Ryan 2 Web image 1
Reg Plate BS8754 Northern Run Number Red 281 web Image
RegABG0711 Race NumberRed251 Web 2
reg Plate BS 8201 Run Number Red 157 web Image
Reg Plate Ford YJ 353 Run Number Red 329 web Image

What I’d Do Differently

If I were to do it again — and let’s face it, I will — I’d go back to my old spot in the middle of The Mall near the traffic lights. It offers better sightlines and fewer obstructions. I’d also consider adding a third light, just to fill a bit more of the frame (and test my waterproofing setup to destruction). Maybe even test out those gels on one wave of cars.

Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned after three years of photographing the L2BVCR, it’s this: no matter how much you plan, the British weather will always have a few surprises up its sleeve

Horse Portrait Photography At Dusk – A Guide To Using Flash – The Good The Bad & The Ugly

Horse Portrait Photography At Dusk – A Guide To Using Flash – The Good The Bad & The Ugly

Horse Portrait Photography At Dusk – A Guide To Using Flash – The Good The Bad & The Ugly

 

I will be sharing some tips and lessons learned on using flash at dusk for horse portrait photography in the new year.

But you can get some ideas about which Lighting Modifiers to Use For horse Portrait Here: https://k2photographic.com/using-off-camera-flash-for-horse-portrait-photography-which-lighting-modifier-should-i-use/

It’s been a while, so I tried something at little different to my usual autumnal horse shoots, making use of September dusk nights.#horseportrait #godoxflash#YorkshireHorse #k2photographic #equine #instahorse#horselove #horselover #equestrianlife #equinephotography#photography #horselife #horseofinstagram#horseportraitphotography